Many patterns specify the use of interfacing in areas of a garment. What is interfacing, and why is it used?

Interfacing is a fabric applied inside areas of a garment subject to high use, such as collars, cuffs, lapels, waistbands and neckline facings, to provide more strength and stability. There are different types and weights of interfacing. Which you choose will depend on the type of fabric and where on the garment it is being used. In this article, we'll explore the various interfacings available.

As the name implies, these fabrics are made of warp and weft construction like other woven fabrics. They can be iron-on (fusible) or sew-in and are generally made of cotton, but could also be a cotton/poly blend. Iron-on interfacing has a layer of adhesive attached to one side. There are many types and weights of woven interfacings, from very lightweight to heavy. We will profile the three that we carry.

Lightweight Iron-on (fusible)

Suitable for lawn fabrics or where you would like to add a little support to an area of a garment without making it too heavy. Lightweight interfacing is used (for example) for the collar and button bands when making a button-up blouse in a cotton lawn because it adds support but not bulk. It can be used with medium-weight fabrics when extra strength is required.

Medium-weight Iron-on (fusible)

Medium-weight Iron-on is my go-to interfacing for collars, cuffs and button bands on shirts and jackets. It provides strength without bulk, helps collars sit well and supports buttonholes. Suitable for use in most medium-weight fabrics and some heavier-weight fabrics. We have both black and white interfacings available.

Chest Canvas

Chest canvas is suitable where crisp detail or firm control is required. It is used extensively in tailored jackets and coats. This interfacing requires hand sewing to the fabric.

These are opaque fabrics made from fibres bonded together. Generally known by the brand name Vilene/Vlieseline, many weights are available in sew-in and iron-on. For many of my early sewing years, this was all I used. I do not know why I chose this when other options often performed better.

Fusible volume interfacing

H 640 is a thick padded fusible interfacing often used in bag making. This type of interfacing can also be used in garments such as jackets.

Sew-in

We have lightweight and medium-weight versions available. Both can be used the same way as the woven fusible interfacings above (e.g. collars, cuffs and waistbands), and the lightweight version is perfect for pattern tracing. These interfacings do not have any 'give', so they can be difficult to use.

As the name implies, these fabrics are knitted rather than woven and are generally iron-on (fusible). We have two types available:

Two-way Fusible Stretch

Two-way fusible stretch (available in black or white) is lightweight interfacing that stretches both ways and is suitable for knitted and woven fabrics. It provides support without changing the hand of the main fabric. Many customers use this interfacing to block-fuse entire garments.

Weft Fusible

Sometimes referred to as Tricot interfacing, this is a knitted fabric with yarn inserted weft-wise (i.e. from selvedge to selvedge), which makes the interfacing stable and reduces stretch. This interfacing (in black and white) is commonly used in jackets and coats as it provides stability and support to the garment.